Glacier travel rope. Explain how to detect a crevasse.

Glacier travel rope. This skillset includes knowing how to rig a rope for glacier travel, including transitioning to and from shorter intervals for steps of moving on rock. Would a 9mm 50m rope be suitable for a team of three, crossing glaciers in the Swiss Alps? May 3, 2019 · Mammut’s new Glacier Cord is designed to be used as part of a lightweight rope kit to allow alpinists, mountaineers and skiers to deal with various challenges and emergencies. The first part concerns rope length on the glacier, the second part concerns rope type and the third part concerns the diameter of rope one might use. Setting up a rope team for effective glacier travel Proper placement of snow anchors Building C-pulley and Z-pulley raising systems Complete rescue scenario simulations Crevasse site safety Crevasse self-rescue Throughout our day-long crevasse rescue course, we learn and discuss must-know skills and topics for all mountaineers. Oct 21, 2021 · Best Application: Glacier travel, crevasse rescue, rappels Price: $74. Describe and demonstrate using a prusik to safely ascend up a rope and back down, wearing a backpack, with some prompting from an I have a single 70m-9. Carrying hauling equipment and knowing hauling techniques is an essential precaution. Should work with a prusik, microtraxion, atc/megajul, munter Dry treated? What length? I think for a 2 person team, 20 meters in plenty. Mar 18, 2024 · In this next episode of our glacier travel series, we are presenting several options for climbers to tie into the rope and how we may choose to match our tie-in setups to our circumstances, gear With expert guidance from an AMGA alpine guide famous for his experiential learning method, you’ll dive into the art of glacier travel, rope mastery, crevasse rescue, and alpine navigation. Setting up a running belay is a multi-step process, but, like many glacier travel techniques, it’s really just a series of the same basic steps repeated in various formulations. The rope is a vital link between partners in a rope team – nevertheless, you should decide on a case-by-case basis whether a situation calls for a Glacier Travel Course This glacier travel course is the ideal program for hikers, backcountry skiers and climbers who wish to safely learn the key skills for mountaineering in glaciated terrain. It's great for glacier travel, works OK with micro traxion and tibloc, more confidence inspiring with nano traxion. It facilitates a rescue in the event of a crevasse fall, and on steep slopes or ridge traverses it is used to protect both the lead climber and followers through belays and other protection points. what length of rope and spacing do you use? a 50m rope with 40 feet between climbers leaves 60 feet of coils used for rescue and rappeling. Of course lightweight kits like this have been available for some time, the most well-known being Petzl Aug 11, 2017 · This two-day crevasse rescue and glacier travel course is designed to give you the skills you’ll need to get into the alpine this summer. I am looking to get a rope for glacier travel and plan to start with Mt Baker again next summer. Cord for Glacier Travel Would 40m-60m of 7mm cordalette material be appropriate for glacier travel? Plenty of companies are producing purpose made static rope for glacier travel down to 6mm (see Petzl RAD line, et al). It is thus Jul 4, 2025 · Learn how to coil a rope for glacier travel with this step-by-step guide. Apr 23, 2018 · It comes with a dry treatment (nice for glacier travel) and has a 9kN "rating" (if I can remember correctly), which I would equate to a half rope. . Just a pure glacier rope? 8. Feb 20, 2013 · What sort of rope would be ideal for glacier travel? I have a 10mm 60m rope, but this is quite heavy. Additionally, we need to make sure that there's enough distance so that if someone does fall in a crevasse, her partners have enough time to self-arrest before they get pulled into the hole. So…anyone here have good experience with any of these? The BD is a little heavier (180 g total) and the Gullies are more still (300 g total), but I’d potentially be Jul 23, 2008 · Here's an illustration from Glacier Mountaineering: An Illustrated Guide To Glacier Travel And Crevasse Rescue: I think the argument is that if the direction of pull is coming from behind you, then having the rope on the uphill hip helps you from spinning all the way around. Learn how to choose a rope that provides safety and ease of use on glacial terrain. Day 1 – Crevasse Rescue and Rope Skills (Squamish) Understanding the required gear Snow anchors Haul: drop loop, 3:1, 6:1 The 3-day Glacier Skills course is for climbers who want to brush up on the essential skills of glacier travel. Get hands-on experience, build unshakable confidence, and emerge as a mountaineer capable of independent travel. All of that will calculate out to your total rope length. Most folks I climb with are comfortable using a single half rope for glacier travel. Full extension (having the climbers 50-60 feet apart) makes communication difficult and tends to allow or foster excess slack in the rope. But in the case of a crevasse fall, you must first stop your partner's fall without falling in yourself. Expecting this may be used for 2, possibly 4 people depending on whether or not we can convince someone. 1:00 pm–6:00 pm: Discuss: roping up for glacier travel, rope travel techniques, simple crevasse fall scenarios, transferring a load, snow climbing techniques, use of ice axe, self-arrest. If you are using a 30m rope but both climbers need to carry 50ft of cord to help with rescues, maybe a rethink of the rope choice is in order. Learn how to rope up to travel as a team as you cross a glacier or a steep snow slope. Knowing not only how to minimize the risk of crevasse falls through route choice but also how to minimize the consequence of a fall is paramount in accessing the bigger peaks. Currently tossing up between getting an Edelrid Rap Line and cutting it in half, the BD 7. Approaching a glacier as a roped team of two A crevasse fall is one of the major risks when approaching a glacier. Connect to the end or middle of a rope team and set up for glacier travel. If you choose to travel as a two person team, each climber needs to be highly skilled in crevasse avoidance, crevasse rescue, and have all the necessary gear. 30m is long enough for a party of three. After reading Andy Selters book on glacier travel I have a healthy fear of crevasse Apr 11, 2012 · In the market for a single, dry, over 9mm rope, primarily for glacier travel. Many of these bridges may be only a few inches thick and will not support the weight of a person or a vehicle. +++Beal rando for glacier travel, short raps, running belays on traverses and other “the fall won’t kill you on the So, what rope should you use for glacier travel? When traveling on a glacier, you can use any static or dynamic rope that’s at least 7. This includes rappelling cliff bands, roping up for glacier travel, undertaking crevasse and cliff rescues, etc. Sep 27, 2020 · The following days are spent going over the very basics of glacier travel, including rope skills, crevasse rescue, rappelling, navigation and setting up camp on a glacier. Finding the correct spacing between Glacier Travel and Crevasse Rescue Crevasses can be difficult to detect and are frequently invisible under thin bridges of blown snow. On the downside, because it's static, if the people on top have Learn how to make Kiwi Coils quickly and efficiently for glacier travel or for shortening your rope. Explain how to detect a crevasse. Jul 24, 2023 · Gaining access to routes guarded by snow and ice often leads climbers to learn the nuances of glacial travel. 0s, or Beal Gullies. Rainier with my wife, Jenni via the Winthrop Glacier – Emmons route. Choosing a Rope for Glacier Travel So, before we get into the specifics as to what the best ropes are for glacier travel, let’s talk about the general criteria you need to fulfill before you can use a rope for this purpose. Use prusik to belay rope team members in and out. We were told that 3 on a rope should Glacier travel calls for a level head and confidence and the best way to build your confidence is to take it one step at a time. Mar 25, 2024 · Deciding how much climbing rope you need for glacier travel is a product of many factors. Aug 11, 2020 · The essential equipment to include in a glacier travel or crevasse rescue kit to ensure that you can rescue a fallen partner or climb out Feb 5, 2025 · Glacier travel requires a specific set of skills and equipment, including the right rope. Nov 2, 2022 · Here's a fast, clever and easy-to-remember way to ensure proper spacing between team members when traveling on a glacier. May 2, 2020 · This video shows a quick and simple way to set-up for glacier travel and stow the remainder of the rope. Be aware that a 30m rope won't leave you enough extra to drop-loop haul on both ends. Do you own a 30m for non technical glacier, and a 50m, 60m or 70m for technical climbs? Double ropes or singe? Is there a workhorse rope you use to cover the majority of your more technical Dec 16, 2011 · Glacier travel with 4-5 people on a 30m rope makes for some tight spacing, but then again, it depends on the terrain. In total, 21 drop tests were conducted. Ditto to McLean's suggestion that 2 30m's are better than 1 60m. Generally a single rope is all you need for the cascades. The Dry treatment also gives the rope maximum safety even in the most adverse conditions, by ensuring that the cord absorbs practically no water and does not freeze in low temperatures. Roped travel is a necessity in any glaciated area which has not been previously inspected and deemed safe. You and Learn how to rope up to travel as a team as you cross a glacier or a steep snow slope. Let's take a look: Apr 23, 2018 · What is the best glacier travel rope that is the lightest weight for big day, minimal gear missions? Don't need to use it rap. However, do not assume that a previously This video provides a detailed description of one method for setting-up your rope, including spacing between climbers, knots to tie, and considerations for traveling on larger glaciers and in more Glacier Gear. But then you’ll have to buy a single rated 60m+ when you get into trad climbing, or buy another half rope and use both. Aug 21, 2013 · A short one would be crazy hard to move back and forth. The course includes crevasse rescue, rope team travel, navigation, self arrest, and cramponing. The importance of knowing self-rescue becomes evident when standing in front of a gaping crevasse or while walking a sagging snow bridge that no one wants to cross! The lure of an amazing alpine route sometimes pulls climbers across glaciers before they are ready or without the Sep 8, 2001 · On which Cascades glaciers is it common to travel without a rope (and when)? I've done a lot of rock climbing over the last 7 years but very little snow. Hello everyone, I am looking to purchase a rope for glacier travel and ski touring and I am wondering what length glacier… Mar 18, 2024 · In this next episode of our glacier travel series, we are presenting several options for climbers to tie into the rope and how we may choose to match our tie-in setups to our circumstances, gear, and position on the rope. Jan 23, 2011 · You should find a book with a good explanation of how to rig for glacier travel, ie Freedom of the Hills or the Mountaineers series book on alpine climbing. Learn rope, axe & crampon use, glacier travel, crevasse rescue, navigation, safe mountain travel and other necessary skills in this 3 day course that culminates with a peak ascent. Feb 5, 2025 · Glacier travel requires a specific set of skills and equipment, including the right rope. The climbers at each end of the rope use chest coils, and the middle climbers tie in as shown. He was at the back of the rope team. Prepare for traveling on glaciated terrain. The list below covers equipment that is recommended for glacier travel and crevasse rescue. Courses are hut based at the Wapta or Columbia Icefields. I would say for general glacier 30 meter rope is standard maybe 40 meter if you plan on having more than 3 people. Nov 29, 2023 · Here’s a summary of the key points to keep in mind: Consider the intended use of the rope, whether it’s for single-pitch climbs, alpine routes, or glacier travel. Mastering the basics of glacier travel opens up access to some of the most spectacular alpine climbing & skiing routes in Canada and beyond! The After reading this page students should be able to: Define what is a glacier and identify some glacier hazards. | By Outdoor Research | Hi, I'm Jeff Ward, an AMGA instructor team member. Incorporate load-cell to accurately measure forces when testing anchors. Jun 16, 2016 · Students about to learn how to rope-up for glacier travel on the Arc'teryx Alpine Academy We offer 3-day crevasse rescue and glacier travel courses on majestic Mt. In a party of two, we each take in about 5-6 coils, leaving about 15m in between us, and tie stopper knots. Dec 6, 2022 · RADline details Intended use: crevasse rescue, glacier travel and rappelling. Ropes Whether you are looking for a single rope, a half/twin rope or a rope with multiple certifications (single and half/twin), you will find one that meets your needs in the Petzl rope line. Learn how and where crevasses form, and rehearse crevasse rescue and self-arrest skills until they’re second-nature. Perform team arrest. American Mountain Guides Association Instructor Team member Jeff Ward explains the finer details of safely roping up for glacier travel through crevassed ter Our glacier travel and crevasse rescue course’s day-to-day itinerary is designed to make sure you get the most out of an introduction to Alaska mountaineering. 1) Petzl 6mm static RADLine, 2) static rope for glacier travel. Jun 29, 2021 · Rope Considerations for Glacier Travel What type of rope should I use for glacier travel? This particular question is a moving target, and has three distinct parts. Be sure to get the Golden Dry version, which is dry treated, a must for glacier travel! Glacier Travel. For prusiks/hero loops/pulley brakes, 5mm What’s the standard rope length for alpine rock climbs in the North Cascades? Examples would be the North Ridge of Mt Stuart, the East Ridge of Inspiration Peak, or the Triple Couloirs on Dragontail Peak. Generally 3 to 4 people on a rope team is typical. I was looking to see if there was a dedicated th Nov 25, 2018 · Conversely, the static rope can give a harder yank on the people up top if the rope management is a little sloppy, with extra slack, so keep that in mind. 1 mm Edelrid Skimmer (which is currently the lightest dynamic rope on the market) The diameter, length, and static vs. May 30, 2023 · 6mm hyperstatic cords like the Mammut Glacier Cord and Petzl RAD Line offer big benefits to mountaineers and backcountry skiers — but they come with specific tradeoffs. Rope length for glacier travel Greetings! I want to cut my rope but not sure how to split it. RAD Line: I've used it for glacier travel, and tried rappelling on it. Learn about glacial gear, team and rope strategies, & rescue skills on the Crevasse Rescue course. 0 40m for two person rope teams, or 50/60m for 3 or 4 person rope teams. Here's a link to some articles on my website that take a closer look. Aug 22, 2019 · I am new to mountaineering/glacier travel. It is so small and lig Glacier Travel This last weekend I had the good fortune to summit Mt. Pretty much just an ascent of Mt. This article explains how to cross glaciers safely. e. This made […] Jun 14, 2018 · How to Rope Up for Glacier Travel | travel, glacier, rope | Learn how to rope up with your team for safe glacier travel with instruction from the American Mountain Guides Association. Jun 29, 2021 · First and foremost, we have to make sure that there is enough rope in the system to ensure that no two people are on the same snow bridge at once. Nov 9, 2010 · How much rope should be between people on a glacier? Twenty feet? Forty feet? Sixty feet? It seems like there should be a clear-cut answer to the question, but unfortunately there's not. During our descent, I noticed another rope team that had decided to pre-rig chest harnesses so that they would remain upright in the event of a crevasse fall. 0mm twin for glacier travel, even with full packs and at least one big boy (me). The climbers at each end of the rope need to carry some of the rope in coils in order to facilitate a crevasse rescue. Crevasse rescue, safety and navigation are critical for anyone moving on a glacier. Plus, a diagram and photo to show actual distances for three and four person teams. Rainier a few years back. No experience required but you should have good hiking fitness and be able to carry an overnight pack. I use a 30m Beal Rando 8 mm rope for glacier travel and easy technical climbing in parties of 2 or 3. We usually use a 8. Travelling on a glacier is an exciting element of exploring the high mountains. Nov 4, 2010 · Either of those ropes will work fine, but 50m is longer than I'd carry for a glacier rope. Apr 21, 2024 · Hey all, looking to get some 30m twin ropes for glacier travel and short technical sections on alpine routes. – Team communication: Effective strategies for staying connected on the rope. The Beal is also tested as a twin rope, which gives you some extra options, worth considering. 7mm Ice Floss raps fine with a BD ATC XP. How to choose? So, the Beal Opera will do all those things if you are dead set on one rope, but ultimately ropes are consumable, and you don’t need to wear out a fancy rope with glacier travel and cragging, and you’ll regret carrying 60m-70m of rope when you don’t need all of it. The nice thing about a full length half or twin rope is that you can double it over for that short technical section, which usually isn't much longer than 25 meters. May 26, 2024 · Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. In this course we will cover how to organize your team members on your rope, different methods of carrying your Jul 7, 2025 · In practice, glacier travel is the same as hiking—but you do need a few extra emergency skills. We are excited to announce that High Altitude Mountaineering School (formerly HAMS) has been renamed and reformatted to now be Glacier Travel which took place in 2022. I thought things might have improved and changed a bit on the way one rigs up and rescues etc. These ropes can be up to 40% lighter than a similar length of 8 mm dynamic half rope, typically used in glacier travel by many climbers. Baker. Standard Course Details: Proper use of ropes/knots and technical gear Group management White out navigation and the use of tools such as map/compass and GPS Understanding the geography of glaciers and their features Crevasse rescue systems; when and how to employ the different types 2 field days Proper Dec 5, 2003 · I would not hesitate to use a half rope for glacier travel. I'm not going to go into too much detail here, but in a team of 2 you should have just under 1/3 of the rope out between Jul 13, 2012 · Would you use a 30 meter 8mm rope to climb Rainier? Details: Two-man team, Disappointment Cleaver route, late July, summitted via same route before, decent crevasse rescue skills. Mar 25, 2024 · For glacier travel, the number of teammates, the snow conditions, crevasse sizes, and preferred rescue systems are all inputs into how much space to have between climbers, how much length to keep in spare coils, and whether to have brake knots in the rope. Many folks use a 'rando' rope, a 30 meter half rope for glacier travel. 5 mm Sharp rated half rope for moderate alpine routes as well as standard glacier travel. Our Crevasse Rescue and Glacier Travel course covers the gear necessary for glacier travel and rescue and a wide range of glacier travel techniques, glaciology and how to perform crevasse rescue in various scenarios. 8mm =====41 grams/meter @ 30 Tying into the rope on a glacier. 8mm wide and 30 meters long. OK, I can't speak about the others but I have both the RAD line, and the Beally gully 7. Dec 23, 2020 · Review of Edelrid's Rap Line Protect rope dry treated for ski mountaineering, glacier traveling, rappelling, climbing and more. I took a guided climb on Mt Baker last summer and will be taking a mountaineering course this coming winter. 5mm 70m water proof rope for outdoors (glacier travel and some abseiling). This new class will focus strictly on Glacier Travel, Rope travel and Crevasse rescue. Oct 9, 2009 · My question here is what to look for in a rope to be used for glacier travel on Rainier. Prusik up a A rope developed specially for glacier trekking and for skiers and mountaineers - suitable for rappelling, haul maneuvers or crevasse rescues. Perfect for glaciers of the Pacific Northwest with moderate crevasse sizes, small packs Jul 15, 2009 · What rope spacing do you use in the Casacdes on glaciers and why? Recently I took a glacier travel refresher course since it was 10 years ago that I did my last one. However, during latest trip I realised carrying the entire coil is heavy work and I wanted to cut it into two pieces. Clothing, ice axe, crampons Understanding the basics of glacier travel skills for the Alps. With a team of two, one climber alone will have to be the counter-weight. A three-person rope team should travel somewhat close together, rather than having the rope fully extended. Static ropes can be great for glacier travel, provided you have excellent rope management, i. Antarctica had lots of crevasses, but they weren’t the Mack Truck swallowing monsters that you can get up in Alaska, so the tighter spacing meant better communications and less rope work. 3 which is a very skinny dynamic rope. I have an 8. Sterling Fusion Photon DryXP Climbing Rope - 7. The Glacier Travel Mountaineering Glacier travel techniques and knowledge are essential to the safety of you and your group. A full 25 meters of rope was deployed for each test, and test masses of 100kg (which approximates the weight of a traveler and pack) and 118kg (which approximates the weight of a traveler, pack, and sled) were used. This technique will keep your rope tangle-free and ready for your next adventure. Joe Miller of Team Tender demonstrates how to tie 3 basic knots for glacier travel on a rope team: the retraced figure eight, alpine butterfly, and prusik k Nov 30, 2016 · Speaking of training, it should also be noted that it takes training and practice to become safe and efficient at glacier travel, crevasse rescue, rope decent and ascent, etc. Explain what is a crevasse and how it is formed. , minimal slack. Some years ago a friend of mine was coming down the Coleman-Deming route on Mount Baker late in the season. Apr 23, 2018 · "To stop a crevasse fall when traveling on a glacier, always making sure to keep the rope as tight as possible, people most often use a small-diameter dynamic rope. Purchasing this kit and/or other equipment is a good starting point but without the expertise to use it, not much of a benefit. Takes place on Mt. Waiver & Risk Management: Rope discipline, rope spacing, brake knots & excess rope: What do I need to consider as part of a rope team on a high alpine tour? Watch the video to find ou Learning Objectives: Students will be able to: Describe and demonstrate tying into the middle and end of a glacier-travel rope using the correct knot (s) and carabiners, with some prompting from an instructor. 11 votes, 16 comments. Topics covered include: light-weight rope kits and other glacier travel equipment, when and how to rope up, reading glaciers, winter and summer travel, snow and ice anchors, rope ascension / self-rescue and a lot lot more. Choose a rope length that suits your climbing objectives, taking into account the specific requirements of the routes you plan to tackle. Travel as an efficient rope team member. Students will be informed of admission into Glacier Travel once their applications have been reviewed. Be sure to have small diameter cord for the prussiks you bring to go with it, though. Baker (10,781') in the North Cascades. The rope is your insurance on a high alpine tour. We're roping up on the glacier here so we need to get our spacing figured out and all our tie-ins. Still pretty bulky, but a good option if the RAD line is out of your price-range. I am contemplating buying the Edelweiss Discover 8mm x 30m Super Dry Twin Rope that REI sells. Made for “ R escue A nd D escent”, hence the name. 8mm for multi-pitch climbing and cragging, a 30m Beal Rando 8mm rope for glacier travel and ski-mountaineering. I use a 50 m, 8. It was quite expensive since the weight is low. dynamic issue of the “best” rope for glacier travel is a BIG topic. I'd love something thats sort of in between to use for long trad routes, ski-mountaineering, glacier travel, and scrambles. The number of teammates, the snow conditions, crevasse sizes, and preferred rescue systems are all inputs Morning Session: Glacier Travel Basics Our guides will start the instruction by demonstrating how to properly set up a rope for glacier travel, focusing on: – Rope intervals: Adjusting rope length for varying terrain. But if the person fall in a way that the direction of pull comes from the downhill side then I understand your point May 8, 2011 · The 8mm 30m Beal Rando Dry Cover Rope is exactly what you need for technical descents that involve short rope work or glacier travel. 95 for 30m Diameter: 8mm Weight: 37g/m Rope Type: Twin rated The Beal Rando is a great rope for the aspiring ski mountaineer who isn’t exactly sure what they’ll need going forward. When crossing a glacier, your rope is there to catch you if you fall into any crevasses (a crevasse is a hole in the glacier that can be hundreds of feet deep). The person at the front of the team slowly began to work his way The test method simulated glacier travel situations. Feb 16, 2022 · For more complex tours that involve both glacier travel and have the potential to require some belayed sections of skiing, it is a good idea to bring one dynamic half-rope and one hyper static rope: such was the case skiing the Aussie Couloir near Pemberton with Adam Fabrikant finishing up the day down the Anniversary glacier. Aug 11, 2013 · A half rope is perfectly fine for glacier travel. Plenty for glacier travel and rapping, but a little on the "unsafe" side (depending on your risk tolerance). In abrasion tests, Dry ropes also achieve higher abrasion Dec 17, 2018 · For glacier travel, many experts feel that four is an optimum number on a rope team, with three slightly more risky. Want a rope that will hold up to a little abuse, is 60m preferably in the event crevasse rescue situations arise. This rope is best To maximize the time we get to spend on snow and ice the course includes a night out in the alpine. Glacier Travel & Crevasse Rescue: Essential Bigger peaks often require some glacier travel in some form. Tying into the rope on a glacier. 8mm or even 7. What is more preferred for glacier travel: static/hyperstatic ropes like a rad line or something like a dynamic alpine rope? I’d imagine you don’t want to fall on a static line into a crevasse as that would hurt pretty bad, but it seems like people love the rad lines? I’m a total noob to glacier travel so any advice is appreciated. Jul 12, 2023 · Traveling on a Rope Team Once comfortable with basic snow travel techniques, gaining experience traveling over glaciated terrain on a rope team is a great next step. Because it's static, the distance of any fall will be minimized - less rope stretch. Suggestions? Not looking to break the bank! Nov 1, 2023 · 50 meter, 7. mugi bwgjt rnplg movhu mql vyejjyxk rlb fwjibtuw wksz zic